Have you ever admired a beautiful bullion fringe at the bottom of an antique sofa? Did you know there was a practical purpose for such a gorgeous piece of and handiwork? Bullion fringe was used at the bottoms of sofa to protect the fabric from dirt and boot scuffs (even thought the trim cost more inch per inch than the fabric they were trying to protect.)

The fine art of passementerie, defined by the French as the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings, has spanned centuries upon centuries. In ancient Egyptian times, silver and gold threads were woven into braid. Tassels that adorned robes in ancient China were also used as handles to lift the robes showing no weapons were concealed underneath. In Jacobean times, fringes and tassels were used to soften the hard and harsh interiors of their homes. Elizabethan household inventories also detailed bed curtains trimmed in fringe and braids.

In Marie Antoinette’s day, passementerie lavishly decorated the king’s bedchambers and the queen’s boudoir as well as their clothing. It is said that Marie Antoinette commissioned a tassel in the shape of a bird cage—including the bird. After the French Revolution, passementerie was reserved for the military only. Napoleon I, however, gave rise to the art again by having the passementiers weave the much-heralded Napoleonic Bee into the braids and gimps of his day.

Victorians are also well known for the use of braid, trim, and tassels. As luck would have it, trims and braids were smuggled out of France at the beginning of the “Industrialization Age”. The Victorians brought the use of passementerie to new heights as the art of adornment become easier for the populace to possess.

Throughout American history, passementerie has had it ups and downs. During the American Revolution, the trims were once again reserved for military but quickly regained popularity as the new America prospered. About the only time during American history when passementerie was not utilized widely was during the great west expansion. The prairie homesteaders protected what came west with them but did not seek out new pieces of home décor finery.

In their glory, the “Art Deco” and “Hollywood Glamour” decorators outlined the silhouettes of sofas and chairs with brush fringe. Braids were lavished on pillows, lampshades, and drapes as well as decorating the silk hostess gowns of the day.

During the 60's and 70's, the rough and tumble Herculon© and Olefin© upholstery days, trims and tassels lost a bit of favor in decorating but showed up on the hems of young girls’ jeans at high schools everywhere. With the advent of the prosperous 80's and 90's, passementerie again returned to homes layered on pillows, cushions, and curtains.

Now we see trims in all decorating styles from the chic and shabby home, eclectic vintage, lush Victorian, modern city, easy country, and all styles in between.

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The author, Sharon Wollman is the designer/owner at C’est Chouette—the Vintage Needlepoint Pillow Boutique. Her pillows have been featured in national publications.

She enjoys her life in South Dakota where she spends time with her husband and two college-age daughters as well as volunteering for many school and children-related charities. Happily, she plays with silk, tassels, and trims all day, every day.